Total Car Score Names the Top 10 All-New Cars for 2013 - Chevrolet Malibu

Los Angeles, CA – August 22, 2012 – The 2013 model year is shaping up to be a pivotal moment for the automotive industry. With over 30 all-new vehicles arriving in showrooms Total Car Score today announced what it considers to be the Top 10 New Cars for 2013.

Total Car Score’s list of the top 10 new models includes vehicles that are either all-new nameplates or existing models that have been completely redesigned for the 2013 model year.

“The average American consumer is driving an 11-year-old car. A huge slice of the public has held off on replacing their vehicles because of economic uncertainty. That means an unprecedented level of pent-up demand,” said Karl Brauer, Editor in Chief of Total Car Score. “This will eventually lead to a flurry of sales as consumers replace their worn-out cars with new ones.”

Brauer added, “Automakers are well aware of this situation, and know the rising pressure on consumers will inevitably break loose with a flurry of buying activity. When this happens, every carmaker wants to be positioned to capture new vehicle shoppers with enticing cars, trucks and SUVs.”

The 2013 model year marks a significant effort by automakers to reinvent volume products, as well as introduce all-new cars, in a bid to capture market share. The following 10 vehicles represent the most significant models landing in dealer showrooms this fall, according to the editorial team at Total Car Score.

Chevrolet Malibu -- MSRP: $22,000- $30,000

After mixed success with previous attempts, Chevrolet needs to get the 2013 Malibu right. The latest version represents an opportunity to not only leverage a re-energized nameplate but to do so with a hybrid “Eco” model and a powerful, turbocharged four cylinder that replaces the V6 option.

 

Courtesy of Total Car Score

Your Monday Maintenance Tip: Engine Knock

What Is Engine Knocking?

Engine knocking refers to the metallic sound an engine can produce when pressure is applied to the gas pedal. The noise may be a hollow knocking sound or more of a rattling sound—in either case, it's not a sound you want to hear.

When an engine pings, it releases pollution into the environment in the form of nitrogen oxide (NOx) and raw, unburned hydrocarbons (HCs). These two chemicals are poisonous gases that show up as yellowish-brownish in a polluted sky. They can also cause respiratory problems like asthma and emphysema.

Common Reasons for Engine Knocking

Improper Combustion Process
An engine can ping (or knock) due to an improper combustion process. A "spark knock" is the result of combustion occurring too early. Early combustion can occur from carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber, a lean air/fuel mixture, and advanced ignition timing (spark plug firing too soon). In a properly-firing cylinder, the spark plug ignites the air/fuel mixture and a flame front starts on one side of the piston and burns across the top to the other side, which creates a rapid and evenly-expanding gas that pushes down on the top of the piston. When the air/fuel mixture is ignited prior to the spark plug firing, the two flame fronts collide, causing the pinging/knocking noise.

Engine Is Too Hot
An engine can ping because it is too hot. This is another uneven combustion scenario that is caused by the air-to-fuel mixture "lighting off" by itself. If the cooling system does not keep the engine's combustion chamber temperature in check, the air-to-fuel mixture will begin to spontaneously explode. This is also called "pre-ignition."

Improper Gasoline Octane
In addition to cooling system problems, pinging can be caused by improper gasoline octane, an overly lean air-to-fuel mixture, or a lack of proper exhaust gas recirculation. The exhaust gas recirculation system (EGR) was created to neutralize engine pinging by adding a small amount of exhaust gas to the air-to-fuel mixture going in to the combustion process, which limits the peak combustion chamber temperature.

Internal Mechanical Problems
Internal mechanical problems can also cause engine knocking. One such problem stems from excessive clearance inside the bearings in the connecting rods that transfer the downward movement of the pistons to crankshaft rotation. Each time the piston changes direction, there is a knock from the metal hitting metal. This is often referred to as a "rod knock." It is usually very rhythmic—it increases with engine speed and intensifies with engine load.

Other mechanical problems that lead to engine knocking are:

• Defective main crankshaft bearings
• A cracked or broken flywheel or flex-plate that attaches the engine to the transmission
• A worn water pump bearing
• A failed or loose timing belt tensioner can knock when the timing belt slaps against it 
• An air conditioning compressor can knock when it is failing or icing up
• An alternator with worn rotor bearings can knock when the pistons fire

Be sure to properly inspect and verify the root cause of the knocking sound, as it can be tricky to pinpoint. You don't want to replace the entire engine only to find out that the knocking was coming from a cracked hub on the transmission flywheel or flex-plate. Ouch!

 

Courtesy of Repair Pal

2013 Spark Anthem | Spark | Chevrolet

 

The Chevy Spark has toured the world and now, we're bringing it home. Check out the 2013 Spark in action.

Your Monday Maintenance Tip: Drive in the City Like a Pro

Driving in the city is a very important skill that many need to have, especially if you happen to live there. Most city dwellers do take public transportation when available, but when you need to drive, we have the tips to help you become an expert. After this little crash course on city driving, you will learn to love the flow and bustle of city life and merge seamlessly with it, rather than going mad and pulling out your hair every time traffic gets heavy.

Smaller cars are the key to everyday travel through the city. Not only do you get the ease of parking in tiny spots, but you will also save a big of gas because of the stop and go traffic. Major cities are built to accommodate as many people in a small amount of space. Thus the city the streets and parking spaces are much narrower and smaller than others your use to.

Automatic transmissions are recommended for everyday travel to and within the city. The stress and fatigue will increase as you shift aimlessly with a manual transmission. Trust me on this one! During one of my trips to NYC, I shifted a manual transmission over 1000 times in an hour through heavy traffic. As many people swear by manual shifting, this is OK ( so do i) , it has its advantages, but it's just not well suited to city driving.

As parking spaces become harder to find, having that small car can get you in those tight spots. If you have the money, you can also invest in technology like back up cameras. These cameras will allow you to see how close you are to the car behind you through a pin hole camera on your trunk. Parking sensors work just as well, as you don't even need a visual, but only listen to a few beeps to know how close you are to the car behind you. Some luxury cars will have sensors in the front as well as the back.

Always drive inside your lane. Signal ten seconds before you lane change. Be cautious in hard driving conditions like snow and rain. Be careful of those huge pot holes ahead. So look give yourself some space between the car in front of your so that you have a better visual of the road ahead.

Avoid driving in the far right lane unless your turning. Metros, trucks, buses and other turning vehicles all enter the right lane. So to avoid any unnecessary backup time, drive in the middle lane if you are traveling straight for a while.

Now that you have a few tips. Try them out and you'll be on your way to being a pro at city driving.

Courtesy of EzineArticles

Your Monday Maintenance Tip: Parking Techniques

ANGLE PARKING

 

There will be many times when you will see angled parking spaces in a parking lot. In this case, vehicles are designated to go one way.

Here are some safety tips:

• Stay at a safe distance from parked cars so that you can see and maneuver better once you have found an empty spot.
• Stay alert for cars backing out to leave their space.
• Always signal to show that you are ready to make a turn.

PERPENDICULAR PARKING

Perpendicular parking is similar to angle parking, but requires greater care in turning. You will find perpendicular parking in most parking lots, which normally provide spaces marked in a 90-degree angle to the curb or a building.

When parking bring your vehicle to a spot while keeping enough space from the row of parked cars. 

Always stop with your wheels straight and your car centered in the space.

PARALLEL PARKING

In general, you will use parallel parking next to a curb in the space between two parked cars. Sometimes parallel parking is your only option. You will need to choose a space that is at least five feet longer than your car. It requires practice to master this maneuver. 

Always signal first, and then position your vehicle parallel with the vehicle parked (rear bumpers of both vehicles are aligned) in front of the empty spot. Keep at least two feet away from this vehicle.

Check to make sure the way is clear behind you, and shift into reverse. Look over your shoulder and back slowly as you turn your wheel toward the curb.

Back up slowly so that the front of the vehicle is even with the front door of the vehicle beside you. Turn the wheel sharply to the right and back up slowly until your vehicle is at a 45-degree angle from the curb.

Turn the wheel sharply in the direction away from the curb and back slowly until your vehicle is parallel to the curb.
Put the car into a forward gear and slowly center your vehicle in the space.

PARKING ON A HILL

Uphill

When headed uphill at a curb, turn the front wheels away from the curb and let your vehicle roll backwards slowly until the rear part of the front wheel rests against the curb using it as a block.

 
Downhill

When you stop your car headed downhill, turn your front wheels toward the curb. Let your vehicle roll slowly until the front tire rests against the curb using it as a block.

No Curb

When headed uphill (or downhill) with no curb, always turn your front wheels to the right so that if your vehicle moves, it will roll off the highway, not into traffic.

ILLEGAL PARKING

Parking in the following areas is prohibited:

• On highways (unless indicated otherwise)
• In an intersection
• On pedestrian crosswalks or sidewalks
• In front of driveways
• In a fire lane or close to a fire hydrant
• In an underpass or bridge
• At a blue curb or for a spot reserved for disabled
• Beside another parked vehicle (double parking)

Consult your state's Drivers handbook for details.

VEHICLE SECURING PROCEDURES

Whenever you park your car, make sure you do the following:
1. Make sure that you are stopped within a legal and secure parking space.
2. Set the parking brake.
3. Put the car gear in park for automatic transmission. For manual transmission put the car either in first or reverse gear.
4. Turn off any accessories used.
5. Turn off ignition switch and remove key.
6. Check for traffic prior to exiting vehicle. Open door safely and face traffic when getting out of the vehicle.
7. Secure doors and windows.
8. Lock your vehicle and take the keys with you.

SECURING VALUABLES
Safety Tips

• Always make sure your doors and windows are closed when you leave the vehicle, even for a short period of time. Do not leave a vehicle running unattended.
• Always park in well lit areas; avoid parking in isolated parking spaces or in bad neighborhoods.
• Never leave any valuables and equipment inside your vehicle. Place them in the trunk of the vehicle and lock the vehicle.
• Install a vehicle alarm system if you store valuable items in your vehicle.
• Never leave a spare key inside the vehicle, especially if it can be seen from the outside.

 

Courtesy of DriversEd.com

Our happy customers have wonderful things to say. Thank you all for the rave reviews!

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- John R

Your Monday Maintenance Tip: Night Driving/Reduced Visibility

Driving in fog
• Driving in heavy fog is dangerous, and should be avoided if at all possible.
• Sometimes, though, conditions suddenly become foggy when you’re already
on the road.
• Your safest bet when visibility is greatly reduced is to pull off to the side
of the road and wait for the fog to lift. If you do that be sure to get your
vehicle as far off the road as possible and turn on your vehicle’s emergency
flashing lights so it doesn’t get hit.
• If you must keep driving in the fog, slow down! Also, watch carefully
for vehicles in front of you that may be moving at an even slower pace.
• Turn on your headlights as soon as any fog appears. Use the low
beams, rather than the “brights.” Your high beams, or bright headlights,
will throw light into the fog, making it even more difficult to see the road.
• Be sure to keep your headlights on, even if it’s during the day. They may
be the only part of your vehicle other drivers can see.
• Don’t stop in the middle of the road. And don’t use your emergency
flashing lights when driving.
• Use your windshield wipers. Also, turning on the defroster can help cut
condensation on the inside of the windshield.
• Keep a safe distance from other vehicles, and signal early if you need to turn.
• Use the right edge of the road as a guide to help you stay in your lane.

Nighttime driving
• Even if it’s clear outside, driving at night is more difficult for most people
than driving in the day. That’s because it’s harder to see road signs and other
vehicles. It’s also harder to judge the distance between your vehicle and others.
• Always use your headlights when driving at night. Turn them on half an hour
before sunset, and keep them on until half an hour after the sun rises.
• Using your “brights” or high beam headlights will enable you to see a
greater distance if it’s not a foggy night. But be sure to switch back to the
low beams as soon as another vehicle approaches so the driver isn’t
“blinded” by the bright light.
• Make sure your windshield and headlights are clean.

 

Courtesy of Gempler's

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